Clark Hall Iron Doors
704-987-0777

Professional Installation

Professional Installation is Required to Validate Warranty

Tools needed: Level, drill, screwdriver, chop saw, caulk gun, grinder, file

Supplies needed (not provided): 3” X 5/16” lag bolts, self-tapping 3/4” screws for attaching the sweep, shims, black, or bronze polyurethane caulk, 3-in-One oil, emery cloth.

Door arrival: The door and the jamb will be shipped in a wood crate direct from Mexico. The jamb will have temporary shipping rods at the bottom. DO NOT REMOVE THE SHIPPING RODS UNTIL STEP 9. Glass doors, threshold, weather stripping, and sweeps may be shipped separately. Most specialty glass must be ordered in the US and may require additional delivery time. This delay could be eliminated by ordering glass from your local glass supplier.

1. Make sure you have a rough opening at least 1 inch wider and ½” taller than the door.

2. Make sure the floor is level; the bottom of both jamb legs must be level. A roll of vinyl water proofing or pan flashing is recommended under the threshold and behind the jamb. Note: For replacement situations make sure the base is built-up to the interior floor. This can be done using PVC.

3. Install the jamb, setting it in the center of the opening level and plumb. Make sure you set it 1/2” or 5/8” into the room making allowance for the interior dry wall. Set top and bottom lags in both jamb legs leaving the center until doors are installed and set. Note: Use the 3” lag bolts to set the jamb through the capped holes at the hinge locations (pre-drill these holes).

4. Attach the sweep onto the bottom of the door. Use silicone and self-tapping screws. Cut sweep to length and bore it for the throw bolt on the passive door. Lipped edge goes to the inside.

5. Sand or file the paint from the male part of the Barrel hinge using an emery cloth.

6. Inject one shot of 3-in-One oil into the nipples of all hinges. Coat both male and female parts of the hinges. 

DO NOT USE HEAVY GREASE – THIS WILL MAKE DOOR DIFFICULT TO OPEN.

7. Insert ball bearing provided into the male part of the hinges and with at least two people and the door at 90 degrees set the door into the receiving hinge on the door jamb - male into female.

8. Secure and shim the other jamb leaving an even reveal around the door and down the center where the two doors meet (you may need to shim the top of the door to spread the jamb). Note: Doors need to meet, top, center and bottom at the same time. Adjust jambs accordingly.

9. Once doors are set properly, remove temporary shipping rods. Temporary shipping rods are bolted on to the bottom of the jamb

10. Cut threshold to length and slide in under the door stop. Note: Caulk under and at the ends of the threshold. Remove the adjustable part of the threshold to secure the threshold to the floor.

11. Install the q-lon weather stripping into the kerf of the jamb and astragal.

12. Bore a hole for the top and bottom throw bolts. Make sure not to bore too large of a hole or the doors may rattle. A graduated drill bit works best for this step.

13. Apply the self-adhesive weather stripping to the glass doors. Remove the tape and set the gasket (fat side toward the outside edge) mitering the corners. Be sure not to stretch the gasket or it will shrink. More gasket material can be obtained at any hardware store.

14. Install the glass doors. You may need to adjust the receiver for the glass door cam latch to make sure it is not too loose or too tight. Don't force the latch or it will break.

15. Install your hardware as per manufacturer’s specs. Remove any excess bondo in all of the mortised holes and holes for hardware. Tap the holes for the strike plates, as the iron will tend to strip the threads of the soft brass screws. We have provided an adjustable strike plate and hole plugs. Hardware: Standard bore on the iron doors is 2 ¾” backset , 2 1/8” holes 5 ½”  center to center.  Do not use lever handles, as it will interfere with the operation of the glass doors.

Our Elite iron doors are 2” thick so you will need to request an extension kit with your hardware choice for 2” doors.

16. Wash the door with a very mild soap and water solution (e.g. baby shampoo). Only use Windex or other cleaners on the glass. Touch up the door where needed with the touch up paint provided.

Other Considerations for Replacing an Existing Door:

Because our doors are installed using lag bolts through the jamb rather than tabs you can usually leave the interior casing intact and pull the existing door away from the casing to the outside. Remember to cut the paint or caulk with a knife around the interior of the casing so as not to damage it.

We normally recommend replacing the brick molding with PVC brick mold. If you have arched brick molding on the top of the door, remove it carefully, as it can often be salvaged, cleaned, painted and fauxed to match the door. For matching brick molding paint with the base black paint (Krylon flat or semi flat works well) and let dry. Using gin cloth and medium reducer mixture apply faux to match the door using a gin cloth and medium reducer mixture described in our finishing instructions. 

Install the brick mold and caulk the perimeter. (Use painters tape to protect the finish of your door before caulking)

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